tutorial making flexible molds

because it's a great way to duplicate things you made, frames you like or shapes from bottlecaps etc, since Jonquil kindly asked ànd I'm happy to do it, here is a tutorial on how to make flexible molds.

note: to learn from others experiences (Josje's in this instance) this kind of mold making is best for smaller objects, since bigger objects take too long and this kind of molding material hardens too fast for that.

I don't have any of the stuff anymore and don't have anything to mold anymore either (and unfortunately didn't think of doing a tutorial making the molds recently), so the first steps are without photo's, but you can manage that, I'm sure ;), it's also supereasy!

supplies
- two components mold making stuff, like 'Gummyfrub'. Called Silligum in France, Angie Scarr uses 'MinitMold', and there's also something called Amazing Mold Putty. And there are probably more names for it and variety's of it out there.
- things you want to make a mold from, this can be objects, frames, something you made, but also different sizes of small containers to make molds for a cake for example, beads etc.
- (olive)oil (with other moldputty's you can also use talc or (corn)starch or something)
- bakingpaper (or other non stickpaper)

steps
I recommend reading everything before you start, this can prevent surprises along the way
1) - have everything ready, spread out a piece of baking paper on your workarea
2) - clean your hands well and dry them
3) - put a little oil on your hands and the items you want to make molds of, just rub a little on everything, making sure it covers the whole object and is just slightly greasy. This will help prevent sticking to your hands, or not being able to get the item out of the mold, once hardened. I find it helpfull to also rub a little oil on the bakingsheet, because it's not always non-sticky enough ;) and I had to seperate the molds from the paper with a very thin slicer..
4) - start mixing both components with equal amounts, never use too much at a time, since it hardens quite fast and - although real hardening takes longer - it will not take enough detail of your model anymore. Try to take what you can work with within 5 minutes or so. I always rol the seperate amounts into a ball. That is what I found is easiest to see if you have the same amount of both colours. If the balls are about the same size, you can mix. Knead it in your hands like clay, mix well for a minute or so till it's blended well.
5) - take the object you want, for instance a frame (mine are actually ornaments used for scrapping/scrapbooking) and put it on the baking paper with its back on the paper. Put the moldingstuff on it and put very little pressure on it on all sides so it will take all details. Gravity does the rest. Then leave to harden, this takes a few hours, not sure how long exactly (I understand it can also be different between brands). Leaving overnight garantees that it hardened completely.
6) - carefully remove the object from your mold and you're done!

steps 5 & 6, one as described, the top frame I molded sometime last year and that time I pushed the model in the moldstuff, whatever has your preference. After hardening you have a negative of your model

now the FUN can begin & you can duplicate! It is advisable to use a bit of oil of talc to rub the mold with, so it comes out easier afterwards. Use clay to push in the mold, press well overall so the clay gets in all corners and picks up as much detail possible and smooth the surface of the clay. For frames like I used in this tutorial I advise to make the clay in a 'snake'shape, the thickness of the framewidth. That way it's better tot get a flat back without having to remove excess clay later.

I believe it might be possible to bake it in the mold, but since I didn't want to take the risk and have Milliput (two componants clay) that air dries, I'll use that. If you don't have milliput, want to use a clay like Fimo, Sculpey or Cernit and don't want the risk of your mold being tarnished somehow in the oven (soon or over time), you can carefully release the unbaked fimo/sculpey/cernit by placing the back (the clayside) on a tile and gently push the clay out while lifting up the mold and bake in oven according to direction on clay-package.

with the rectangular frame I had too much clay and had to remove and smooth with water, that's why it looks so smudgy and uneven looking. The result is a replica of your model, not always perfect, but I think it looks pretty good and it definately beats making them or bying lots of the same thing

for a different use of molds, here's a link to a tutorial from Stella Que Pasa for making puddings, with molds and Scenic Water (from Deluxe Materials). It's in Dutch, but I think the photo's speak for themselves and it should be doable to use only those as guidance.

and I found this great short video on You Tube by Ms Wonderland Cat for an alternative way of flexible mold making, using hot glue! That something more of you out there might have and in that case you don't have to go and buy or order moldingstuff. As you will know: be very carefull, since the hot glue and the hot-glue-gun can make nasty burns..

have fun!
More tutorials, but also tips & trics can be found in my "Tutorials, Tips & Trics"-section.

UPDATE: I understand you can make a good and flexibel mold with liquid fimo (or liquid Sculpey or likewise) too. Just take a small container (not to big around your to mold object, because it will cost you unnecessary product), or something that will fit in what you want a mold of (and can go into the oven at the required heat for the liquid polymer) place your item into the little bowl or container, pour over the liquid polymer and bake in the oven following the liquid polymer instructions on the bottle! It's easy!